Dogs Best Friend
Dog Behavioural & Training Blog/Tips
Last 5 entries
- Dog Training. Dog Behaviour. Dogs with a fixation on cats.
- Dog Training. Dog Behaviour. Your dog being friends with every dog they meet?
- Dog Behaviour. Dog Training. The safety of children around dogs.
- Dog Training. Dog Behaviour. Mouthing and Nipping in Puppies!
- Dog Behaviour. Dogs performing the 'fake' yawn.
- Leadership and Dominance in Dog Training
- Guy Fawkes and similar stressors for dogs
- Separation Anxiety
- 'Walking the Dog' and all associated...
- Dog 'Ownership' Helpful Tips
- Preventing 'Fixation'/'Obsession'
- With Cats...
- General Training
- 'Obedience' Type Command Instruction
- Safety Around Dogs
- A Good Dog Behavioural Consultant/Dog Behaviourist
- Entertainment for your dog
- The problem with gadgets in effective dog training
- Stress in Dogs
- Reactionary Behaviour
- Embarrassing antics our dogs get up to...
- 'Tis the Season'
- Visitors and your Dog
- Cars/Vehicles and your Dog
- Why does my dog?
- Dogs Taking/Collecting Items
Dogs with a fixation on cats -
Use a deep guttural “Bah!” and clap of hands (if able) as soon as you see your dogs behaviour modify, to when their body stiffens and their pupils dilate (wide eyed). ‘Ranting/screaming’ at your dog or physically handling them when they are in this state will only heighten the excited energy present.
You may need to train your dog to be relatively calm on a lead first in front of cats. [Read More…]
Admin - 20:00:02 @ With Cats...
Watch out for cuing/signalling for a negative response in your dog …
Try not to tighten and tense up your dogs lead when you spot another dog in the distance (this also applies to spotting other animals or people) and usually a road crossing is not needing when discovering them either ;-) These actions only perpetuate the signals to your dog, that yes indeed, there must be something off with that ‘creature’ if we are to ‘react’ this way.
Another, slightly different way to look at cuing is -
When you put your dog back on their lead after a recall, try if you can, to leave the lead long enough for slack. If you have the lead too short and tight each time after you get your dog back in, a negative association can form with coming back to you and being put on the lead - your dog has lost all that freedom, Selina McIntyre, Dog Behavioural Consultant & Dog Trainer, Dogs Best Friend.
The super useful ‘Leave’
This can be used for stopping your dog picking up objects or around cats… really anything you want your dog to move away from (Trev, one of our dogs, is always using his nose and not always finding the most acceptable things for us humans).
Keep hold of an especially favorable treat (or super interesting toy that you could be squeaking!!) in your hand and wait for your dog to lose interest - which they will eventually. [Read More…]
Oh the chase!
With cars -
It can be unfortunate that cars ‘run away’ swiftly and allow the perfect chance for a good fast chase for your dog!
Chasing can become quite the obsession - think cats, fixation on torch lights etc. [Read More…]
One problem with aversive collars (Shock, Choke, Citronella Spray)
I have found over the years in this Consultancy is that it can be a very easy and speedy process for a dog to develop and learn a negative association with the creature (human or other) or object, present when the gadget (of particular effect Shock Collars) is used.
Then, a negative reaction is almost ‘flagged’ for that inadvertent person or object and extensive retraining to build a more ‘normal’ or neutral response again may have to be undertaken.
I would rather get to the bottom of your situation, for long term change,
Selina McIntyre, Dog Behavioural Consultant & Dog Trainer, Dogs Best Friend.
Admin - 18:48:05 @ With Cats..., The problem with gadgets in effective dog training, Reactionary Behaviour | 1 comment
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dog trainer operating in the Hamilton, Waikato and Tauranga area's of New Zealand
dog behaviourist / dog behaviour specialist